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"If you believe that Paris is the most beautiful city in
the world... if you want to better understand the
mysteries of the Parisian character, then PARIS THROUGH EXPATRIATE EYES
is the place to be.
–Pete Hamill, newspaperman
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I walked into Café Roma (San Francisco) amid
music blaring from the speakers. A man got up and said, "Hi,"
and I shook his hand.
Terrance Gelenter is a kindly man with a beard, long hair, and friendly
blue eyes. He was wearing the kind of long coat that you see people
wearing in Paris. He told me he was born in Brooklyn in a Jewish community
and that his mom was a Moroccan Jew born in Casablanca, then he gave
a little smile.
Terrance is a tour director and I decided to interview him because I
believed that he offered the only tour that gave tourists the ability
to actually see Paris
through expatriate eyes .
"I want to show people something profound and interesting about
Paris," he said. The reason he does the tours is because lots of
tourists only see the visible first layer of Paris. He said if you walk
down a street and look up five more feet than you did the previous day
you will see a whole different Paris, and if you look up five more feet
the next day there’s yet another Paris to see. The same thing
happened to me when I was walking down a street in Paris and looked
up and there was a mural and paintings I hadn’t noticed before.
Terrance also offers different choices of tours to take, like his original, "Paris When It Sizzled" which explains about the early 1900s writers and painters such as Ernest
Hemingway, James Joyce, and F. Scott Fitzgerald.
I was interested about when Terrance first went Paris and he told me,
"When I was 24 years old my grandparents went to France and traveled
all over. They had a great time and when they came back they told me
that Paris was the most civilized place in the world. They also told
me I was missing something if I didn’t go to Paris. So after about
2 years later I went and had a fabulous time. I continued going back
and after that I realized that lots of people were interested. I had
a meeting with the people that were interested in all the things that
I was, like old streets, cafes, and all the little old shops. So I persuaded
them all to come to Paris with me and help me put money in my pocket.
The next thing I knew I had a whole circle of friends in Paris, some
of which helped me get started with the business."
I was curious who Terrance’s first real Parisian friend was, and
he said, "John Baxter." John Baxter wrote books and Terrance
met him through a writer friend. He met John Baxter at Les Deux Magots,
a grand café in Paris. John Baxter wouldn’t let Terrance
pay for anything at that first meeting, which is typical of how generous
Parisians are. So that was how Terrance met his "key collaborator"
for his tour business. After that, John introduced Terrance to more
friends who also played a role in starting the business.
I had a great time interviewing Terrance, and I continued talking with
him about Paris while we were on the sidewalk outside Café Roma.
Terrance is a very interesting man and has a knack for creating tours.

Oliver Smith was born in October 1993 in Berkeley and now lives in Oakland
with his mom, dad, and little brother. Oliver attends Park Day School
in Oakland. His hobbies include playing baseball (now on the all-star
team), soccer, swimming, watching movies, reading, and playing with his
brother. Oliver has been to France several times, which sparked his interest
in writing a magazine about it. He enjoys the food, culture, and cafés
in France. Oliver’s favorite authors are Philip Pullman and J.R.R.
Tolkien. He likes them because of the way they describe what is happening
and how they paint a vivid picture of the scene through words.
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