La 8 ièna at Paris’ Shangri-La Hotel

At the end of 2014 Christophe Morel took over the ovens at the Michelin-starred L’Abeille and also La Bauhinia at the Shangri-la Hotel. His work has been receiving great reviews in the French gastronomic press. It was a pleasant Saturday afternoon and I wanted to get a taste of his cuisine without holding up a bank so I booked a table for M and myself at this seasonal terrace. We were warmly welcomed and very quickly thereafter were sipping flutes of rosé from Bollinger.

At the end of 2014 Christophe Morel took over the ovens at the Michelin-starred L’Abeille and also La Bauhinia at the Shangri-la Hotel. His work has been receiving great reviews in the French gastronomic press. It was a pleasant Saturday afternoon and I wanted to get a taste of his cuisine without holding up a bank so I booked a table for M and myself at this seasonal terrace. We were warmly welcomed and very quickly thereafter were sipping flutes of rosé from Bollinger.

This summery menu is liberally accented by Asian influences. M began with Yam Som’O-grapefruit salad with prawns, cilantro, peanuts, lime and a spicy vinaigrette with a touch of heat.

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My shredded chicken salad in a Szechwan sauce was labeled 3 chiles, but not to worry, they were grading on a curve for the French-any self-respecting American fan of Mexican cuisine will not suffer. I found that touch of fire to be easily put out by the 2013 Sancerre from Domaine Vacheron, although it will benefit from more time in the cave.

My bar (sea bass) served with spinach was aromatic; the skin was crunchy-simple, elegant-perfect.

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M opted for a onglet de boeuf à la Thai. Slices of the slightly rosé meat served with Thai barbecue sauce and accompanied by sautéed green vegetables and a bowl of masi lemak rice perfumed by slivers of coconut.

A 2012 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Burgundy was light enough  not to overpower my fish and rich enough to be a good partner for the beef.

Desserts were a classic Ile Flottante and a light tarte aux fraises-certainly enjoyable but not quite as inspired as the other elements of this lovely afternoon meal.

La 8 iéna at The Shangri-La Website

10 Avenue d’iéna •Paris 75016

 

  

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