Bistros & Restos 11th to 15th Arr.

Les Grandes Marches-12th arrondissement

After a massive renovation by the restaurateur Gérard-Joulie Les Grandes Marches reopened late in 2012. Adjacent to the Paris Opéra Bastille it can accommodate over  300 diners on two levels and the 60 seat terrace. An ideal spot for a pre-performance cocktail or post concert dinner we arrived for dinner while the sun (long absent) this year was still shining and were seated at a booth underneath a photograph of Maria Callas and facing the winding staircase that leads to the upper salon reminiscent of a 1920s ocean liner.

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Les 3 Sceaux

It was Friday night and this recently hip section of a very large arrondissement was hopping. A young crowd was packing the bars along the rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud that had heretofore been boucheries and boulangeries.

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Jadis-15th arrondissement

Off the beaten tourist path in the 15th arrondissement discerning diners are discovering pleasures worth the trip. Young chef Guillaume Delage brings an innovative approach to classic seasonal dishes and his wife charms the front of the house.

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L'ourcine-13th arrondissement

I first heard about this quaint bistro nestled off the beaten track in the 13th from my pal Alec Lobrano, author of Hungry for Paris but my introduction was from Barbara Wild of French gardening.

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Le Baron Rouge-12th arrondissement

At the end of a morning of shopping for Sunday dinner at the Marché d’Aligre I can often be found sipping a glass of red from the extensive list of wines, some for as little as 2.5 euros a glass, accompanied by a plate of rillettes de porc with a bowl of cornichons that could easily satisfy two persons at this local institution.

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Astier-11th arrondissement

Just a few blocks from the République metro station at the junction of the northern end of the Marais and the 11th arrondissement Frederic Hubig of Café Moderne has applied his talents into turning this classic old Paris bistro into a vibrant bistro du coin that attracts diners from all over Paris or like the couple seated to my left from Mexico City.

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Chez Paul-12th arrondissement

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No one should have a bad meal in Paris! Whether a 2-star restaurant or a local bistro there should always be an excellent rapport qualité prix– relationship between price and quality. At my favorites you will be treated as a regular and have a satisfying experience. Just tell them  “Terrance sent you.”


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Regularly scheduled literary salons with guest writers, private dinners, restaurant openings, wine tastings,market visits and cooking classes attract a discerning, sophisticated crowd who love to have a good time while they learn. Our cadre of Paris–based colleagues happily share their passion for this magical city.