Off the beaten tourist path in the 15th arrondissement discerning diners are discovering pleasures worth the trip. Young chef Guillaume Delage brings an innovative approach to classic seasonal dishes and his wife charms the front of the house.
I wanted to see what Alec was so excited about and we were joined by the wine importers Cynthia and Robert Hurley of Boston who selected a white Graves from Pessac Léognan La Croix de Carbonnieux 2007 to get us started.
Cynthia had a velvety velouté of pumpkin with garlic croutons and fresh herbs while Robert enjoyed Oeufs cocotte florentine, poutargue de bar maison.
Alec went for the Foie gras poêlé, confit de tomates and since the game season was just opening I couldn’t resist Râble de lapin de garenne rôtis physalis et trompettes de la mort (saddle of hare on a bed of physalis with wild mushrooms.) We ate slowly in anticipation of our next wine, a red from the Languedoc, Faugères Domaine de l’ancienne mercerie 2008.
Cynthia picked up my game cue and had roasted mallard Filet de colvert rôti, spätzeles la cuisse en caillette et choux rouge confit and I chose a pan-fried onglet de veau with cream corn and Swiss chard.
Robert ordered Pavé de cabillaud (cod) vapeur, choucroute et beurre blanc. Alec countered with Crevettes David Hervé, poêlées au Saté, crème de riz noir et épinards.
We skipped dessert and ordered the cheese assortment washed down by a Vacqueyras Arabesque Montvac 2006.
We wandered back and forth from the formule to à la carte to experience the widest variety of Chef Delage’s talent. And befitting a hard working, young chef running his own shop the wine list sparkles with excellent wines at reasonable prices.
208, rue de la Croix-Nivert, Paris 75015
Metro: Convention, Porte de Versailles