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The flagship of three stylish Paris restaurants is in the 17th arrondissement. It was 1 May, a national holiday in France and M, our sommelier and I had our choice of tables. A large table ronde afforded us a view if the street over the “café curtains.
We were immediately offered mini-gougères and a champagne bio from Fleury that M found very mineral in taste. To get a comprehensive feel for the kitchen we ordered a menu de dégustation–each item progressively bigger and better.
The first item was puréed zucchini in a mustard émulsion that was ethereally light in both bulk and taste but the Noix de veau fumée d’Hugo Desnoyer more than compensated.
Next up was an egg baked at à 62°c with ail des ours, an herb that resembles chives-. I found it evocative of spring.
With the next course the menu became more substantial-Red beet gnocchi with caviar d’Aquitaine followed by lobster from Brittany served with celery root, Dailkon and red radishes.
Rich sweetbreads à la meunière with chopped beets and onions was the last of the main courses and for me the best.
Dessert was Peruvian mango with coriander and chocolat grand cru « Samana », vanille galanga.
Coffee and Burgundy Whisky from Michel Couteur crowned a lovely evening.
M’s Wine Notes
Bourgogne aligoté, Fanny Sabre 2010 lacking in nose and mineral in taste but with a long bouche.
The Blanc, Andréa Calek 2008, a Viognier from the Ardèche continued the mineral theme that began with the champagne.
L’échallier, Delatte et Bertin 2009 Chenin blanc from the Loire –light floral nose with full flavor.
Cours Toujours, domaine du possible 2010 Roussillon-exceptional
Saumur champigny, Bobinet 2009, 100% Cabernet sauvignon– powerful, floral and very good
Doamine Maury La petite baigneuse 2010 Late harvest white and a cote Banyuls-a red resembling port
The French seem to be discovering whiskey and the special bottling, peaty malt from Michel Couvreur was a delightful surprise.
Lunch: 12PM – 2:30PM
Dinner: 8PM – 10:30PM
51 rue Jouffroy-d’Abbans 75017 – Paris
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