CAVES SAINT GILLES

Situated halfway between my office and my apartment on the rue des Tournelles I pass by the Caves daily but I hadn’t eaten there with the exception of few before or after dinner glasses of wine with olives.

It was the night of a huge Obama victory celebration as we Americans were able to once again proudly patrol Paris’ streets and be embraced by our fellow Parisians. I had met the IMC (Intercultural Marketing Consultant) at the party and she was joining Dr. PP and me for dinner. Chez Janou, across the street was packed so we headed towards the Caves Saint Gilles and squeezed into the last available table.

We skipped the tapas and ordered a bottle of cheap (16 euros) red vino de la casa to whet our appetites for grilled sardines, gambas bathed in olive oil and grilled with potatoes-the shells are succulent and crunchy-for madame et moi and paella for the good doctor. Halfway through the meal the IMC’s 19 year-old daughter joined us for paella and another ½ bottle of red.

By the end of the meal the two French couples at our right who had admonished us, for being too loud when we sat down, were boisterously joining us in bonhomie.

The second visit was a spontaneous celebration of the IMC’s landing of a new client. It was a cold, dank night and I’d been talking to the chef about sopa del pescador, a Spanish version of soup de pecheur redolent of garlic and the Mediterranean. We preceded it with a tortilla (not that staple of Tex-Mex cooking) but an omelet filled with onions and potatoes and grilled calamari. We drank the house red and were comped a delicious green apple digestif

Caves Saint Gilles is good time that won’t dent your wallet.

Caves Saint Gilles
4 rue des Tournelles
Metro: Chemin Vert

CHEZ JANOU

After a long absence and a change in ownership I was reintroduced to this wonderful little bistro near the Place des Vosges but far enough away to keep the true tourists at a distance.

My go between was the oft-married, blonde, Healdsburg, Ca interior designer Myra Hoefer, whose atelier is across the street and who uses Chez Janou as her personal canteen-with her oversized glasses and great stories she merits a write-up of her own.

The bistro recalls the feeling of Pagnol’s classic trilogy of life in Marseilles: FANNY, MARIUS and CESAR, with movie posters and black and white photographs covering the walls dominated by the great Raimu and 80 varieties of pastis to transport you to sunny Provence.

We met for a Sunday brunch before going to the flea market at Saint-Ouen. I couldn’t resist the crisp petite friture déperlans (tiny whitebait, floured and fried and served in a basket with aioli on the side.) It reminded me of my favorite cookbook-THE CUISINE OF THE SUN/Mireille Johnston. Myra had the house salad of shrimp, avocado and grapefruit sections. A chilled rosé from Provence, a slice of St Nectaire fermier, coffee and we were off to the flea market.

I had several more meals with friends and clients that season and when I returned this year I once again relished the petite friture that reminded me of my first summer in Provence. I was alone and the pupils of the woman at the table directly in front of me dilated as she gasped. I, of course, offered her one of the tiny fish dipped in aioli and was immediately invited to join their table of three for a glass of wine. They were from Australia. She was here to help her son find an apartment and her friend’s husband was a college professor whose family had escaped the Nazi’s. I now have agents in Australia.

And just last week the London Art Dealer who had been in Paris for three weeks and had been joined by the London Classical Music impresario for the final week met me for a farewell lunch before packing them and their bags into a taxi to the Gare du Nord.

It didn’t start out well-the host was a little full of himself, Rafaelle was put out when we were unhappy with the seating she offered and our waitress Aude offered menus without a smile. I suggested that they rename the place, Le Bistrot sans Sourires (Bistro without Smiles) that brought smiles to the faces of the two gentlemen to our left. 

Pierre-Philippe was a banker and Henri at one time ran one of the largest ad agencies in Paris. By the time Aude reappeared to take our order she was beaming. We boringly ordered the same delicious meal from the 14.50euro formule of the day: tuna marinated with salmon and grapefruit and a faux-filet with oven-roasted small white potatoes. Our neighbors suggested a red from the Luberon.

Henri has a large vacation home in San Remy de Provence and knew the wine. Our conversation featured food, wine, movies and singers; Pierre-Philippe favored Aznavour and Henri, Moustaki. They were both intently into blogging and You Tube and Henri grabbed his camera and recorder for an impromptu interview featuring my singing a few bars of an Aznavour tune and a Tony Bennett arrangement of FLY ME TO THE MOON-coming to You Tube soon.

It was just like being at Chez Panisse with Fanny, Marius and Cesar.
Chez Janou
2, rue Roger Verlomme
Paris 75003
Metro: Bastille, Chemin Vert
01-4272-2841

Chez Omar

An unpretentious hangout for fashionistas where owner Omar Guerida pops in and out at mealtimes to maintain a watchful eye and selectively tablehop.

With a name like Omar you can naturally select from a couscous menu that includes grilled skewered lamb, spicy merguez sausage, a lamb shank, or chicken as well as a wide selection of bistro-style steaks. No need to splurge on a big Bordeaux-opt for an Algerian or Moroccan wine.

And when Omar approaches your table he’ll greet you in English or French and as I found out on my first visit-even Spanish. I was the guest of a regular and when we declined an offer of dessert Omar went to the bar and returned with a bottle of Saint-Emillion that I enjoyed with friends over a home-cooked meal the following night-almost as much as I enjoyed telling the story.

No reservations but waiting can be fun. No credit cards. No lunch Sun.

47 rue de Bretagne, Paris, France
Tel: 01-42-72-36-26
Métro: Filles du Calvaire

Le Pamphlet

After several days of multiple business meetings a colleague invited me here for yet another meeting but this little gem is quiet and elegantly appointed –a welcome oasis of calm.

Chef /owner Alain Carrere’s market-driven prix-fixe menu of comfort foods artistically presented is easily paired with a well-chosen wine list that partner “just call me Fred" constantly tweaks with new finds like our 2003 Aubaï-Mema, a Vin blanc de Pays d' Oc.
Reservations essential.
And a rarity in Paris-an intimate non-smoking dining room that bears no resemblance to Siberia
MC, V. Closed Sun., 2 wks in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Mon. and Sat
38 rue Debelleyme, Paris, France
Phone: 01-42-72-39-24
Métro: St-Sébastien Froissart.

4th Arrondissement

Don Giovanni

The opening night program at the recent opening of FILMING THE CAMPS at Paris’ Memorial to Le Shoah showcased the American filmmakers John FORD, George STEVENS and Sam FULLER. They arrived in the concentration camps with American troops and recorded the unimaginable so that in Eisenhower’s words: “100 years from know some son of a bitch won’t be able to claim this never happened.”

Afterwards, led by Baron Eric Rothschild, whose family underwrote the construction and endowment of the Memorial, we walked a few blocks to Don Giovanni for a dinner with notables including Christa FULLER, Sam’s widow. As I mounted the stairs to the private dining room I was greeted by a face from my San Francisco past: Marco, one of the co-owners had worked at the North Beach Café and the Steps of Rome. The food was carefully prepared, fresh and quite good and was adequate encouragement for a follow-up visit.

I invited Susan R, my graphic designer in gratitude for her work. We were barely seated when Enrico from Roma placed two glasses of prosecco di Valdobbiadene before us. We shared a plate of coppa and a salad of roquette with sliced artichoke and thin slices of parmesana over which a rich olive oil was drizzled.

Next up we tested the butcher and found him to be excellent. SR had the escalopes de veau aux champignons, thin slices slightly braised and finished in a reduction of the mushrooms. I had a super tender mignon de boeuf –melt in the mouth with a gorgonzola sauce. Marco selected an Italian red-Aglianca Torredora 2007.

Desert for S was a mousse au chocolat blanc and for me three little balls of vanilla ice cream with girottes (bitter cherries.) Over coffee and grappa we met our neighbor, the conductor of the Radio France orchestra.

I had been coveting his heaping bowl  of spaghetti alle vongole so I’ll be back soon.

Don Giovanni
19 rue François Miron
M: Saint Paul

Le Loir Dans Le Theiere

It’s like stepping back into the 70s in Berkeley/ San Francisco-a fern bar without the ferns. A pastiche of posters paintings and tchochkas adorn the walls and seating can be best described as informal. Collapse into one of the oversized leather chairs if you can.

Situated at the non-Kosher end of the rue des Rosiers, the concept is simple: an array of omelets at 9.50, savory tartes at 8.50 and les pieces de resistances, patisserie at 6.50.

Plats du jour are available but I like to give my wallet a break here usually select a tarte.

English spoken and appreciated, especially on Sunday when brunch starts at 9AM
3,rue des Rosiers
Tel: 01-4272-9061

Cucina Napoletana

My enterprising daughter, import/export of fashion accessories, licensed masseuse (Women only) has branched out into matchmaking. Long having given up on her father she paired Uncle Den Den, who approaching his 70th birthday was convinced he would be alone, with a retired Italian cardiologist and five months later they are goofily, adolescently in love.

I hadn’t seen the happy couple since the night they met and so I joined them and her friend Daniella, the Italian architect for an Italian meal.

We opened with a delicious 2004 Rubesco-Lugarotti, an Umbrian Chianti (27euros) to accompany a fresh antipasti of bruschettea, pomidori, eggplant, olives, hard-boiled eggs, prosciutto and sopresa served on a gorgeous cobalt blue ceramic plate from Positano.

Linguine with clams and scampi preceded two whole bar and durade in a red sauce with pasta. The second bottle of Rubesco was perfect.

Café and limoncello-deliciozo and under 50 euros per person with wine.

Cucina Napoletana
6-8 Rue Castex
Paris France 75004
Metro: Bastille, St. Paul
01-4454-0661

Chez Marianne

André Jorno’s Tunisian mother opened the first Sephardic grocery on this rue de Rosiers location in the early 50’s when the Marais was still the predominantly Ashkenazi Jewish neighborhood it had been since the Middle Ages.

Falafel lovers will argue vociferously as to who makes the best on the rue des Rosiers but I like my falafel with ambience: Orthodox Jews in black hats and coats, young Sephardim in the contemporary togs of youth with yamicas bobby-pinned to their heads, pretty young girls with long blonde hair from Australia, America and Scandinavia, and from the gay community just across the rue Vielle de Temple-same sex couples of every description–a perfect place to enjoy a leisurely lunch of hummous, tahine, falafel, grilled eggplant, poivrons, pita, and a chilled rosé finished off with baklava and mint tea for less than 20 euros.

In summer tables practically spill out onto the street and around the corner onto a small plaza adjacent to the Elementary School for Jewish Boys that André attended, as did 165 who were shipped off to the death camps during the war. The plaque on the outside wall is a perpetual reminder.

The streets teem with shoppers and tourists–many stepping up to the take-out window for a giant falafel as sauce dripping down their fingers they window-shop up and down the narrow, ancient streets.
As the unofficial Mayor of the Marais André can often be found, cigar in hand, schmoozing with pals and customers on the rear terrace.

2 Rue Vieille du Temple.
Tel: 01 42.72.18.86
Metro: Saint Paul

My frequent dining companion Corinne Labalme of La Belle France invited me try an old bistro under new management-two sisters from le Perigord.

I arrived early, inhaled the comforting aroma of the potage de chataignes (chestnuts) and took advantage of the free wi-fi to catch up as I waited for Corinne to arrive from the David Lachapelle show at the Musée de la Monnaie. The lovely younger sister Melodie made me an espresso and I booted up.

Corinne arrived energized by the exhibition and she ordered a salon blanc from the Loire and a robust Cotes de Bergerac rouge for me. A filet of merlu lightly sautéed to yield a crisp exterior and a moist interior and bathed in a lemon sauce, described by Corinne as yummy, was preceded by a verrine de chevre chaud blended with tart fresh dill. I, of course ordered the potage and grilled magret au 5 parfums.

While on a Saturday video shoot Dr. PP and I stopped in for a 13.50 euro formule lunch–terrine de foie gras, truffles and chestnuts followed by a sauté of pork, crispy à la carnitas, over rice topped with a tart citron sauce. The glass of wine included in the price was a silky smooth Petit Pont rouge from le Pays D’Oc.

One of the intriguing menu items that I will try next time is the Hamburger de Perigord-a hamburger bun filled with a celebration of le Perigord, cepes, foie gras and confit de canard. As our wine glasses were replenished we chatted on and finished with a panna cotta bathed in a coulis of fresh berries.

Our café course was embellished by a pour of vintage rum from Melodie’s native Guadeloupe. I’ll be back for the hamburger or just for a reasonably priced glass of wine at the bar.

Mères et Filles
8 rue St.Paul
01-4804-7589
Metro: Saint-Paul, Sully-Morland

Bouquet ST Paul

Good News if you are regularly in the Marais.

When Sophie and her husband sold the Bouquet to finance the opening of Le Soleil d’Or near Notre Dame the new owners thought they were inheriting a tourist goldmine and not the comfortable bistro du coin it had always been. Regulars stayed away in droves (Merci Sam Goldwyn) but Sophie’s brother Benjamin and former waiter Stephane have taken it back and are restoring it to it’s former style.

I had my first verre here in 1995 but after living in the neighborhood for a few months and numerous visits I’ve become addicted to its simple charms.

Au Bouquet St. Paul is the quintessential bistro du coin. Mornings find businessmen and workmen side by side at the bar for an espresso and shop girls and laptop users sipping their crèmes at a table.

Dinner always features a few cuisine grandmère formule options like gigot d’agneau, poulet roti or a simple but excellent preparation of the “catch” of the day.

On the last day of my recent trip I met my daughter for lunch. We were greeted with a complimentary kir before ordering the formule at 14.80 euros. Moule farcis for Patricia and for me a creamy avocat/crevette preparation that left those California avocados in the dust. We both leapt at the chance to enjoy an ongelot, the butcher’s cut of steak, that was up to their standards-high quality meat, a generous portion and cooked segnant as we like it. We passed on the selection of Berthillon ice creams and sorbets, opting for a classic crème caramel and tarte aux pommes. A pichet (25cl) of Morgon at 4.75 euros from their complete selection of Beaujolais was the perfect beverage on this warm day.

Two espressos and several hugs and kisses later we said adieu. The cost of the meal was a mere 34.30 euros (tax & tip included.) Lunch in Paris with my daughter-priceless.

Au Bouquet St.Paul
85 rue Saint Antoine
Paris 75004
Metro: Saint Paul
Tel: 01-4278-5503

Café Louis Philippe

The Polish Countess had just joined me as a member of the Grandparents Club and I invited her for a celebratory drink. She chose one of her neighborhood haunts, the venerable Louis Philippe that has guarded the Pont Louis Philippe along the Quai de Hotel de Ville since 1810.

We were welcomed by the owner’s aunt and brother, Alain, who works the bar. After bisous all around we were ushered to a cozy nook under the winding iron staircase leading to the second floor dining room with views of the Seine.

The Louis Phillipe is one of the few bars in Paris not owned by Auvergnats and Provencal hospitality was on display as peanuts and the house olive mixture appeared. The Countess had a dry white and I a red cotes du Rhone. A second glass and complimentary thinly-sliced sausage took the edge off and with our third glass we ordered an assortment of cheeses. Voila-dinner!

As I attempted to settle the bill, Gilles, the owner arrived and insisted that we join him for un verre. After another round of bisous and introductions and I escorted the Countess over the Pont Louis Philippe onto the Ile Saint-Louis and said bon nuit.

En route to my apartment I realized that I had forgotten an envelope stuffed with beautiful Paris stationery and continued toward the Louis Philippe. As I walked in Gilles rose from the table where he was drinking with clients and handed me the envelope that he had stashed behind the cash register and directed Alain to pour us a round.

I emptied my wine glass and prepared to leave when Alain finished his duties and insisted that we join him in a round. Believing that I could now leave and rest my liver in walked James, a motorcycle racer and DJ from Boston sporting a long grey beard resembling an inverted handlebar moustache and the inevitable followed–another round.

I fearlessly navigated the cobbled Marais streets without incident, managed to locate my apartment with no difficulty and made my early morning business meeting with a clear head.

Future visits proved that the Louis Philippe inspires generosity and I’ve enjoyed the company of many former strangers.

Metro: Pont Marie
Café Louis Philippe
66 Quai de l’Hotel de ville

Robert et Louise

My friend and hostess for my San Francisco literary salons Virginia Reyna was in town. We met in the lobby of her Paris address, the Hotel Jeanne d’Arc in the Marais where she was holding her autographed copy of Alec Lobrano’s HUNGRY FOR PARIS and after a quick consult we decided to walk to Robert et Louise on the rue Vielle du Temple.

I first heard about this place over 17 years ago from my Sausalito pal, Doctor Bob, who used to live in the Marais before it become gentrified. He claimed that the owner Robert Georget was happy on Brouilly by 9PM and that a festive atmosphere prevailed. I had passed by many times without venturing in. A small, 28 cover space with bare wooden tables, exposed centuries-old beams and a built in fireplace for grilling meats it recalls a Paris of the pre-war era.

We were ushered to a table ronde for six that enabled us to spread out and relax. Our menu decision was made before we sat down–the cotes de boeuf that was being devoured by a family of three as we entered. Overhearing their conversation it was clear that they were Brooklynoises and that although from the same neighborhood and the same age mom and I hadn’t dated during adolescence.

The beef comes from Austria, is generously seasoned with sel de mer that brings out the natural flavor and juices of the meat that is grilled over the wood-burning fire and arrives on a wooden plank accompanied by sautéed potatoes and a tossed green salad. We knew to finish the meat and potatoes first, which we did with a demi of cotes du Rhone.

We had started with smoked herring and vegetables in olive oil on a bed of lettuce-delicious and not enough to prevent us from enjoying every morsel of the beef, including the bone.

I invited Robert’s daughter Pascale to join us and talk about the history of Robert et Louise which was conceived when Parisian Robert met Louise from Limousin on the Paris-Nice train. In 1958 they opened the Bar des Fleurs, named for the tiles that cover the lower half of the dining room walls. It only filled half of the existing space and ice was sold in the back-no refrigerators at the time, no Betty Furness assuring us that we could be sure if it was Westinghouse.

An eight-year old Pascale could often be seen sitting on a bar stool behind the bar and serving customers. By 1962 they decided to convert to a bistro and Robert built the fireplace where today over 330 pounds of beef are cooked each week.

As we awaited our cheese plate, an assortment of Brie de Meaux, Cantal and bleu de Bresse, Pascale filled our empty wine glasses and showed us black and white photographs of her father, mother and sister at home and in the bistro. I don’t remember how but somehow we began singing Aznavour and Moustaki songs and I knew that this would become a regular habit for me.

Before we could call for l’addition, madame made us coffee and served us two snifters of la Vielle Prune, the wonderful eau-de-vie distilled from plums. And before we cold leave, a famished, young English-speaking couple form Croatia walked in but the fire had been put out and no steaks were available so I walked them to the fireplace where Pascale removed the lid from a heavy iron pot where beef had been braising for hours in preparation for tonight’s dinner service. Need I say that they stayed?

The young man sat down and reached back over his shoulder and filled my wine glass in thanks. Diane Johnson once told me that my liver would adapt to Paris drinking patterns-if not, what a way to go.

Robert et Louise
64 rue Vielle du Temple
Paris 75003 Metro: Rambuteau or

Saint-Paul
Tel: 01-4278-5589
Tuesday-Sunday
12PM–2:30PM & 7PM-11PM

5th Arrondissement

Mavrommàtis

My BF was visiting Tante Yvette at La Chazotte so my daughter had invited me for dinner in a delayed celebration of my birthday.

Her choice was Mavrommàtis, the Greek restaurant favored by her English student and my culinary rabbi, Albert Nahmias.

It was brutally hot and we were offered a refreshing ouzo and chateau 5eme (tap water) followed by coupes de champagne.

Patricia ordered for us. To start a tzatziki consisting of a croustillant de gambas au basilic, dolmades of grape leaves with pine nuts and dill and keftédès d’agneau avec échalote confites et menthe fraiche.

The main course was a perfectly grilled bar resting on a pissaladière à l’ognion doux et olives kalamata, roquette. It was all eased down by a Greek red from Péloponnèse at 8 euros the glass.

I continued to follow Patricia’s cues and finished with Yaourt de Brebis au miel de thym, milk shake de noix torréfiées,

A lovely evening and only 35 euros per person plus wine.

42 rue Daubenton
Tel: 01-4331-1717
Lunch: Tuesday-Sunday
Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday
Metro: Censier Daubenton

Le Buisson Ardent

Situated across the street from the Institut du Monde Arab, this 50-seat bistro caters to the quartier by day and turns into a food lovers destination by night where young Baptiste FOURNIER from the Aveyron is turning out seasonal menus of creative riffs on classic dishes.

I was treating my graphic designer to dinner and we were welcomed with a coupe de champagne and a large shot of sweet potato soup with coconut as an amuse-bouche.

I had visited Baptise in the kitchen and the cannelloni stuffed with salmon mousse on a bed of guacamole was a no-brainer and for Susan a confit de lapin with cream of parsnip and popcorn.

For the main event I had the incomparable Saint-Jacques d’Erquy from Brittany with a mousseline d’artichaut à l’andouille in a parmesan emulsion while Susan had a large pavé de veau cooked to rosé perfection served in cocotte with spinach and endive with nut oil. A Menetou Salon 2009 was fine companion.

Susan’s bitter chocolate soup with coconut milk, wasabi foam and coconut flakes was proclaimed fabulous as was my panna cotta with orange flower and a blood orange muffinette.

The formule of entrée, plat and dessert clocks in at a modest 30 euros.

Le Buisson Ardent
25 Rue Jussieu 75005 Paris
Metro: Jussieu
Telephone: 01 43 54 93 02

Les Papilles

I had heard consistently good things about this Latin Quarter bistro and was delighted when my colleague, Alain Neyman, of www.lesrestos.com invited me to join him for a leisurely lunch.

I was a few minutes early and owner Bertrrand Bluy served me a Txapa, a rosé from the Pays-Basques with a cherry-like finish. When Alain arrived and ordered a white wine Bertrand delivered wafer-thin slices of a cured ham from the Pyrenées.

The 31 euro menu changes daily and today we started with a mound of finely chopped carrots, parsley, chives and smoked lardoons topped by a quail’s egg over which we ladled a creamy veloute of carrots with a subtle touch of cumin from our communal tureen.

The main course was a pork breast that had been braised and simmered for 4 hours and served with carrots, snap peas, onions and garlic that had lingered in the pork broth. Chef Claude Ulric works this magic in the tiny but efficiently organized kitchen that can barely contain him. In was served a generous glass of red but was frankly too engrossed in the meal to notice the bottle.

I drained the glass with a St. Nectaire sprinkled with chives, a moundette of applesauce and a green salad dressed in balsamic vinaigrette.

Bertrand had trained as a pastry chef and the marcsapone in cream with cinnamon and caramelized pineapple swirled in a glass was almost ethereally light.

An espresso and another wonderful dinning experience came to an end.

Les Papilles
30 rue Gay-Lussac
Paris 75005
Metro: Cluny-la Sorbonne, Luxembourg -RER
Tel:01-4325-2079
Lunch: 12PM-2PM
Dinner: 7PM-10:30PM

Monday-Saturday

6th Arrondissement

Les Délices de Buci

Sometimes all you want is a slice of pizza, a sandwich, a crepe, a falafel or a bowl of soup. And most of the time your favorite bistro won’t serve it.

We had just watched Bogey get shot by Cagney at the Action Christine and my pal, the crime writer Michael Genelin and I wanted something light and cheap. My experience with combination take-out/sit down Asian traiteurs was uniformly horrible. The food was usually greasy, stale and exceedingly overpriced, but nevertheless I had a good feeling about the heretofore untested, Les Delices, adjacent to The Bar de la Marche, one of my AM hangs.

I was feeling clammy and needed some “Jewish penicillin” or in this case an Asian facsimile: a huge bowl of shrimp ravioli, noodles and broccoli in a seasoned broth for the painless price of 5 euros. A squeeze of lime and a shot of tequila at home and I knew that by morning I would be fine…and I was.

There are several other soups served in the same style, classic Chinese dishes served over rice and a selection of finger foods: spring rolls, nem de poulet, crevettes and porc at less than 1 euros.

The interior is spotless, the food is fresh and service is amiable.

Les Délices de Buci
14 rue de Buci
Tel: 01 43 26 55 13
Metro: Mabillon, Odéon

FAJITAS

The answer to the question: Where can I find good Mexican food in Paris is FAJITAS.

Completely par hasard I descended the Rue Dauphine towards the river, a route I had never traveled and just before I got there, slam, bang, FAJITAS. It is authentic right down to the Vera Cruzano owner, Miguel GARCIA, who first came to Paris 25 years ago on vacation and nine years ago opened his restaurant.

A luncheon formule at 11.50 euros changes daily and offers a mini-tour of Mexico but mi amiga y yo opted to start with freshly-made salted margaritas –none of that sickly sweet, gringoesque, pre-mix we drink in the USA with bowls of chips and salsa. Warning: Fearful of killing his customers the salsa is not super caliente but Miguel will gladly give you bottle of hot sauce.

We started with a Botano, an assortment of chicken and beef rolliotos, chips, refried beans, nopales, chorizo, melted cheese, guacamole and salsa. Next up was Carambola, grilled beef with bacon, chiles, nopales and chorizo served with flour tortillas. A complimentary shot of tequila was the finale.

Join us on July 11 for a special, private celebration. Email terrance@paris-expat.com for details
Viva Mexico!

Fajitas
15 rue Dauphine
Paris 75006
M: Pont Neuf
Open Tuesday-Saturday
Tel: 01-4634-4469

La Cambuse

A quiet little spot around the corner from the Théatre Odéon, the Senat and the publisher Flammarion, La Cambuse is a calm break from the cacophony of Blvd. Saint-Germain. Their formula-simple, classic, uncomplicated good food at reasonable prices (formule of entrée, plat, dessert or fromage at 20 euro) draws editors, politicians and actors seeking a good place to talk.

The genial Gerard presides and serves with effortless charm honed by 25 years of owning a restaurant in the affluent 16th. Married to an American poet he can hold his own in English, if necessary.

He greeted me with a verre of Le Lyonnais de Sain Bel 2008 a springtime red to accompany my Flambeuche d’Alsace, a crispy, wafer thin “pizza” topped with onions and lardons–an Alsacienne pissaladière.

Next up I selected the confit de canard over the other plat du jour, a dos de cabillaud. A perfectly cooked leg served with pan-fried potatoes. I chose a Chateau Joanny 2006, Cotes du Rhone.

I skipped dessert and dove into an assortment of cheeses: Livarot, Camembert, creamy Chevre, Roblechon and Comté. One more glass of Chateau Joanny and on to café and a snifter of Veille Prune.

As befits cuisine traditionnelle you will find a complete menu of steak-frites, coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon and andouillette. And more good news–prices don’t go up after dark.

Complimentary beverage for PTEE Prestige Members.

La Cambuse
8 rue Casimir Delavigne
Metro: Odéon

Oto-Oto

This has been an unusually long and cold winter and I’ve been enhancing my brioche (little, adult pot belly) with loaves of baguette dipped in hearty wine-drenched stews, so when a friend suggested Japanese I was ready to prepare for spring.

Oto-Oto is Japanese for sounds or music of the kitchen and it was indeed a lovely concert.

We skipped the full page of saki and opted for a pinot noir and the music began when our waiter arrived with a beautiful blonde wooden box filled with tofu that he cut into cubes and served on top of which we spooned a fish broth, wasabi and a few grains of coarse grey sea salt.

The next movement was an assortment of bite-sized appetizers including canard, chicken teryaki, sushi and marinated smoked salmon.

Another glass of pinot noir accompanied a light fish broth with shrimp that prepared our palates for the next course, a tempura of asparagus, eggplant, sweet potato and shrimp.

The plat du jour was a classic salmon teryaki followed by a very unconventional dessert of green tea ice cream and sweetened red beans-Japan meets Mexico.

Foamy green tea capped a lovely, relaxing meal at only 39 euro + wine.Now if only a nice Japanese spa and massage were available…

Oto-Oto
6 rue de Sabot
Tel: 01-4222-2156

Le Bistrot Landais

My neighbors will be furious so don’t tell them how you found this place.

A classic bistro du coin where local construction workers get a café fix (best price in the neighborhood) in the morning and a beer or wine pause at the end of the day. This is the kind of place where Garbo laughed in NINOTCHKA

Owner Richard is justifiably proud of his charcuterie and I often make a meal out of a glass  of the red wine of the month and a platter.  And southwest specialties like confit de canard are excellent But today I opted for the 14 euro formule of marinated green peppers and anchovies and a classic lapin au moutarde served with tagliatelle. A glass of Gaillac and coffee and I was out the door at under 20 euros.

In warm weather neighbors gather on the terrace for good wine at great prices. Gerard Depardieu is remodeling a house across the street and is frequently seen with friends on the terrace. I recently spotted an American woman give him an unsolicited bisous and solicited a photo. Gerard graciously agreed.

Le Bistrot Landais
104 rue du Cherche Midi
Tel: 01 42 22 66 23
Metro: Vaneau
Closed Sunday.

Le Rousseau

An authentic bistro du coin-lively atmosphere, reasonably priced good food, lots of habitués (regulars) and shoppers from the nearby Bon Marché.

Caroline charmingly presides over the front of the house and her husband works the stoves.

The lunch menu offers salades composées starting with a Parisienne of lettuce, tomatoes, emmenthal, ham and a hard-boiled egg at 10.50 up to a Norvigienne of lettuce, smoked salmon, herring, shrimp, boiled potatoes and crème fraiche for 16.80.

The classic bistro steaks and frites and tartare never exceed 16 euros.

A diverse wine list by the glass (a generous 15cl) begins at 3.90 so you can have a very pleasant lunch for 20 euros.
I was recently joined by Karen, the Fragrance Lady from Givenchy, a fellow San Franciscan on a Friday night for a perfectly simple meal in the elegantly appointed dining room featuring chairs covered in burgundy velvet.

We had been counseled by our fellow Nemrod pal and Rousseau habitué Anjelica to select from the Sud-Ouest menu. Paté basque for two, confit de canard and 50cl of Irouléguy Rouge from the Pays-Basque.

All that for a mere 58 euros.

Le Rousseau
45 rue du Cherche-Midi
Paris 75006
Metro: Saint Placide or Sevres-Baylone
Tel: 01-4222-5107
Closed Sunday.

LE PETIT VATEL

The petitist bistro in Saint Germain and possibly all of Paris is now under new management. Although the menu is no longer sprinkled with items from Spain it has lost none of its charm.

Stroll by at 11:30 AM and you’ll see Maribel and Marine prepping for the day until the doors officially open and Marine presides over the front of the house.

It’s not always fair to judge a new restaurant until the kinks have been worked out but my first meal was complaint-free.

A taste of paté was placed on the table to accompany a Cote de Ventoux followed by a brick of boudin noir and potatoes in filo dough with a salad of beet greens-light, tasty and not greasy.

A hint of Morocco beckoned in a cuisse de poulet with lemon and onion confit on a bed of couscous.

Pan cotta with mango was a fitting finish to this lovely meal.

Le Petit Vatel
5 rue Lobineau
Tel : 01 43 54 28 49

I’m having my morning noisette under the shade of a chestnut tree that looms over the terrace of the Bar de la Croix Rouge. Off to my right is Cesar’s statue of Centaur and to my left the rue du Four angles towards me.

It’s 8AM and the café has been open since 6 making it a favorite of taxi drivers looking for a quick fix of caffeine who arrive one after the other in quick succession.

By nine locals from the adjacent boutiques and “shop girls” from the nearby Bon Marché stop for a café and a smoke before going off to face shoppers.

It is an unusually restful spot and if I hung around until lunchtime I would select from a wide array of sandwiches on Poilaine bread or perhaps a salade composée washed down with 25cl of good, cheap wine.

And guys if your wife or girlfriend is shopping, enjoy the parade of lovely parisiennes.

2 Carrefour de la Croix Rouge
01-4549-4647

RESTAURANT DES BEAUX-ARTS

Newly ensconced in my 6th arrondissement digs I was open to suggestions by friends and neighbors for reasonably priced meals.

The elegant rue Jacob jeweler and bibliophile John Agee invited me to join him at the Restaurant des Beaux Arts on the rue Mazarin. The red-checkered tablecloths, a wooden bar fronting a giant mirror and French country bric-a-brac create a warm, welcoming ambiance. The 14-euro formule (entrée, plat et 25cl de vin) was even more comforting.

John had a pate de compagne and a hot plate of jambon wrapped in endives, a variation on stuffed cabbage. I opted for a chevre chaud and rumsteack béarnaise-a more than acceptable Bordeaux sent it down smoothly.

And just a few days later on a cold, snowy Saturday afternoon I was back with my photographer/videographer Dr. PP. Saucissee Toulouse swimming in a sea of lentilles was the perfect entrée and a chevre chaud for the doctor and a salade de gésiers (chicken gizzards) for me. The wine of the day was a fruity burgundy.

The Restaurant des Beaux-Arts won’t stoke memories of 3-star dining or even many of the wonderful starless bistros of Paris but at 14-euros for soothing cuisine grandmère you’ll never leave without a smile on your face.

Restaurant des Beaux Arts
80 rue Mazarine
01-4325-7116
Metro: Odéon

L’ATLAS

I had my first meal here on a cold Saturday afternoon in November of 1995, moules /frites with a 25cl of Muscadet and have been coming back ever since-the kind of place that I would often seek out when alone and just looking for an informal, inexpensive meal in pleasant surroundings.

I had been lunching alone last week when my journalist friend Judy passed by and joined me for a coffee and we made plans to meet here for lunch since she lived in the neighborhood and was also a fan.

It was a gloriously sunny day with temperatures in the mid-eighties and I was typically early so the genial owner escorted me to the bar for a complimentary verre while my waiter guarded a table that was about to be vacated.

A few minutes later, on time, Judy and her associate Vivian arrived, received their complimentary wine and we were ushered to our now available table. They plopped down on the banquette and I faced them from my bistro chair. The laminated menu resembles the kind found in a 1950s Miami Beach coffee shop, over-sized with a wide selection of salads, meats, fish, classic French dishes including choucroute garnie, boeuf bourgignon and cheeses and desserts-and in season, an oyster bar.

In addition there are several plats du jour and a formule consisting of an entrée, plat and dessert or cheese for only 16 euros.

Vivian had a delicious Steak tartare and I had my moules/frites. We shared an huge plate of crisp, crunchy fries. Judy had a gigantic salade niçcoise. A simple demi of cotes du Rhone kept conversation bubbling.

And bring an appetite-I dare you to finish the cauldron of moules. At 53 euros for the three of us including a terrific café we went back to work with satisfied grins on our faces.

L’Atlas
11, Rue Buci, 75006
Metro: Odéon, Mabillon
01-4051-2630

Le Bistrot d’ Henri
Another small gem just a few doors down from the Left Bank’s best English-language bookstore, Village Voice Books.

Juju will greet you at the door with a charming smile and a few words of English but the food is all-French, simple, wonderful and portions, even by American standards, generous. On my last visit I had a buttery foie de veau (calves liver sauté) that eradicated all memory of that charred, inedible product that my mother served on Wednesday nights.

A well-thought out list of reasonably priced wines adds to the pleasure of a delightful meal that doesn’t require an emergency trip to the nearest ATM.

Complimentary beverage for PTEE Prestige Members.

16 rue Princess
01-4633-5112

Au Bon St–Pourcain
Walk into this tiny (26 seat) beauty in the shadow of St–Sulpice and you’ll think you’ve walked into (Billy) Wilderian Paris (imagine Irma La Douce.) Owner and former Deux Magots waiter François is right out of central casting–clad in black pants, white shirt and sporting bushy black eyebrows that register his every emotion.

Almost simultaneous with your seating glasses of white St. Pourçain will be placed on your table. If you’re like me the powerful aroma of garlic as you entered will lead you to order a dozen of the mouthwatering mollusks that have been bathed in garlicky butter and parsley and finished off in the oven.

I love the consistency here so I usually opt for old friends like suris d’agneau or cassoulet but the sole meuniere is perfect if you want something lighter. François could easily advertise his coffee as Paris’ worst but he generously adds a hit of calvados to make it palatable.

10 bis, rue Servandoni
01-4354-9363
Metro: St-Sulpice, Mabillon

BOUCHERIE ROULIERE


It was one of those late fall days when the temperature seems to vary 20 degrees from sunlight to shade-wrap the scarf around your neck or let it dangle-but wear it.

I was meeting my Melbourne agent, Barbara Paroissien for lunch to inform her of her responsibilities and my pal Arnold Crane had been boasting about this place.

It is narrow, long and Spartan, with tables on either side leading to an open kitchen. A Sancerre blanc for madame and a pot lyonais of cotes du Rhone (to be shared) for me.

I came in with beef on the brain so a filet de boeuf avec frites and os à moelle was an easy choice. Barbara started with a millefeuile de tomate et artichaut followed by a foresty ravioli with truffles.

The os was actually a mini-meal–four marrow-bones with toasted bread and sel de guérand- a test for my arteries but worth it. The filet was tender and red as ordered.

The millefeuille was passable but the ravioli juice was sopped dry with baguette by both of us.

No room for desert, just café simple and Barbara’s favorite Paris expression: café alongé avec du lait apart.

It was a leisurely meal and by the time we left only two adorable women from Brazil remained and I serenaded them with a few phrases of Luis Bonfa’s MANHA DA CARNIVAL as we sauntered out.
 

24 rue des Canettes
Paris 75006
01-4326-2570

Chez Julien

Two friends and I got together on a whim on a chilly Saturday night in December and rushed off to Bistrot d’ Henri in search of stick-to-the-ribs nostalgia like fois de veau and magret de canard with pommes de terres BUT we were too late, the bistro was complet for at least another hour. Owner Juju (Julien) had a solution. He tossed on a jacket escorted us around the corner to the former Lou Pescadou now transformed into Chez Julien.

A far more modern ambiance but all of the hallmarks of Bistrot d’Henri-a similar but slightly lighter menu, the same reasonably priced wine list (Graves rouge at 19 euros the bottle) and charming bilingual service.

Complimentary beverage for PTEE Prestige Members.

16 rue de Mabillon
01-4354-5608
Metro: Mabillon

Paris Pizza
Terrance receives warm Italian
welcome from Patrizia

Thirty years ago Sergio, a Parisian transplanted from Naples met Patrizia on the beach at Rimini (Fellini’s AMARCORD) and six months later a Parisian Pizza empire was launched.

Believe it or not one does occasionally tire of foie gras, oysters, champagne, cote de boeuf and Bordeaux and when that happens I head for the best pizza in the sixth, Da Pietro, on the rue Mabillon. Greeted by the ever-charming Ciro Pastore I usually grab my favorite spot on the terrace, but even if you have to wait, especially after 8PM, he will dazzle you with his Neapolitan charm and deliver your wine curbside.

Although the house features homemade pasta, grilled meats, calamari, scampi, gambas and moules I invariably opt for the pizza. An individual pie with a crisp crust direct from the wood-fired oven from where Patrizia keeps a watchful eye it never fails to satisfy.

My preference is for the simple-Margherita or Isabella (tomato, mozzarella, anchovy and oregano) although there are fourteen others to choose from including pescatore and quatro formaggi. If you opt to share a pizza with a demi of Italian red you can be out the door for about 20 euros total.

If you can’t wait, send a scout over to the sister restaurant Golfe de Naples at 8 Rue Clément and see if a table is available. Equally famous for its pizza and being Marcello Mastroianni’s preferred pizzeria when wooing Catherine Deneuve who lives nearby.

Da Pietro
12, rue de Mabillon
Metro: Mabillon
01-4354-6234

FISH

Juan Sanchez left Miami to study cooking and wound up creating a great wine shop, La Dernière Goutte which supplies the wines for the provençal inspired meals that FISH turns out. His partner, Drew Harré, came to Paris from New Zealand, fell in love and stayed.

Together they have created a marriage of an American bar, Irish pub and French bistro that attracts locals as well as in-the-know Anglophones.

I had my first meal here in March 2001 and over the years spent more time at the friendly bar where a fine selection in the 5-6 euro category keeps your budget under control. The good news is that the food has gotten better.

Two of the same, then clients, now friends, who had dined with me were back in town and on the their first night we made a beeline for FISH. Paul, the young bartender from the French-speaking part of Grand Rapids, Michigan greeted us with a glass of Muscadet. Although unlike the name would suggest there was a wonderful carré d’agneau but we opted for spinach risotto, green asparagus and a generous portion of oven-roasted salmon served on a bed of risotto and topped by a poached egg.

Two bottles of Mercurey from Burgundy got us through the meal and the cheese course of reblochon, saint maure and brie de meaux.

At 31.50 per person plus wine and cheese it was filling and convivial meal.

69 rue de Seine
01-4354-3469
Open 7 days, air-conditioned

Huiterie Régis

There is nothing like the feeling of a repentant woman eager to atone for her sins.

An internationally renowned writer without a cell phone had completely forgotten our luncheon engagement, leaving me to enjoy the terrine de sanglier, pavé and fromage blanc/chantilly alone.

She insisted on treating me to lunch in expiation.  Her choice was Huiterie Régis in the 6th. A tiny space –only 14 seats, pristine with white tiled walls serving thinly sliced saussicon, huitres, crevettes and a wine list dominated by Sancerres and Muscadets-it is simplicity personified.

Big beautiful, meaty speciales, fines de Claire, belons from Marenne Oléron, pink crevettes of substantial size, a little bread and butter, mignonette, if you wish, although I prefer to taste the salty Atlantic. A dozen to start followed by a wedge of cheese, a fruit tarte if you have room and coffee.

An assortment of Armagnac and Cognac is on hand. We skipped the digetsifs but all was forgiven.

Huiterie Régis is open every day except Monday from September –July 15 when Régis and two pals pack up 3 mules and do their annual climb of Jebl Toukbal high in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains. At 4,167 meters she is Africa’s tallest.

Huiterie Régis
3, rue de Montfaucon
Paris 75006
01-4441-1007

Le P’tit Fernande

The baby brother of the cavernous Bistro Fernande offers an edited version of their soul-satisfying, cuisine grandmère in a quieter and more intimate setting.

Friends from San Francisco were in town and we began by sharing two entrées: a rillette d’oie avec pain grillée and a creamy tartar of crevettes et avocats that were more than enough for everyone.

Two salmon were deliciously roasted and accompanied by a purée of zucchini in basil. Not a drop of that vegetable remained on either plate.

A classic steak tartare-nothing fancy just hand cut and prepared from a great piece of meat. These people have a great butcher and my morceau with a confit d’eschalottes and purée pommes de terres never disappoints.

Having just finished Rudy Chelmincki’s new book about Beaujolais, I’ll DRINK TO THAT I opted for a 2005 Thevent Morgon- at a  mere 22 euros.

One more treat awaited; Kirsch-laced girottes in a bowl of fromage blanc with 3 spoons, however, when it arrived the abstainer could not resist.

We walked out to the bright light of a June evening fully content and we barely broke the 100 euro mark.

Complimentary beverage for PTEE Prestige Members.

Le P’tit Fernande
7 rue Lobineau
01-4046-0688
Metro: Mabillon, Odéon

Les Racines
I was on my way to Le Rostand after stopping at the Hotel Saint-Paul to retrieve the latest issue of WHERE-Paris featuring my ad, say hello to Valerie and Djimina and stroke the house cat, Sputnik, who generally perches at the front desk.

En route I had passed a petite bistro du coin with intriguing prices and I retraced my steps and entered. The menu featured assortment of grilled steaks, steak tartare, salads, drinkable wines and daily specials. Although it was only 12:45 the poulet roti à l’estragon that my neighbor was savoring had already sold out. The other specials were filet mignon, sauce moutarde, gratin de macaroni au jambon and a crispy crusted tarte au legumes that each of the party of three at my left enjoyed.

I had tartare on my mind and at 12 euros with salad and frites was every bit is good as the 19-euro version at Le Rostand accompanied by a 25cl pot of cotes du Rhone for 4.50 euros. I finished off the remaining wine a bleu d’ Auvergne.

Les Racines
22 rue Monsieur Le Prince
Paris 75006
Metro: Odéon
01-4326-0386

My guess is that the first time many of us saw caviar was when Conrad Veidt in CASABLANCA was spooning copious quantities of those glistening little back eggs into his mouth as he grilled Humphrey Bogart about his political activities. It was then and continues to this day to be the epitome of elegant living.

During Les Années Folles in Paris caviar was raised to the rank of the finest dishes. Under the impetus of immigrant families and princely traders fleeing the Russian revolution of 1917 and through the know-how of La Maison Petrossian, the art of caviar has become in the finest restaurants in the world and artistic circles the essential ingredient to the success of the best receptions.

I arrived at PETROSSIAN on la rue de la Tour Mauborg in the 7th arrrondissement at 11AM for a dégustation of three caviars accompanied by flutes of iced PETROSSIAN vodka that made my toes tingle. Not wanting us to stumble out of the building an array of smoked salmon, herring and sturgeon awaited us along with more vodka.

A trip upstairs to the dining room featured more delectable nibbles and after having been identified as someone who would assist the bartender in emptying the bottle, more vodka.


If you are very lucky when you come Petrossian you will be served by Mme. Petrossian who must be the most elegant lady to ever to work behind a retail counter.

Caviar: a primer The current caviar comes from 8 species of sturgeon that were historically fished in inland seas of Eurasia and in the Amur River Basin, which borders China. Today these species, although still caught in these waters many of them are farmed, particularly in China, Bulgaria, United States and France. Beluga: measuring 1.5m to 6m per 100 kg to 1,000 kg, the Beluga are anadromous, that is to say they back the sea to spawn in freshwater. The eggs can represent nearly 25% of the weight of the female. This is one of the largest fish in the world.. He lives in the Caspian Sea, the Black and Azov and in the eastern Mediterranean.

Ossetra: 1,5 m to 2m, 80 to 150 kg, is present in Black Sea, Azov and Caspian. There are two subspecies persicus that spawn in the rivers of the Iranian coast. It is an anadromous fish that feeds on invertebrates and small fish.

Sevruga: 30 to 80 kg for 0.70 m to 1.5 m, it is also called starry sturgeon. It is also anadromous and is found in the Black Sea, Azov Sea and Caspian Sea.

Petrossian Boutique
18 Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg
Tel 01-4411-3222
Metro: La Tour Maubourg

Le 122

Close to the Musée Rodin, Le 122 rue de Grenelle offers a refreshing pause after a morning with the master.

Brightly lit from the large windows and white walls the menu is every bit as light. My pal Corinne Labalme started with four pieces of marinated salmon with a coulis of apple and fennel on a thin, checkered potato chip followed by a salad of romaine and Mediterranean vegetables washed down with a 2006 Pouilly Fuissé;

I ordered the carpaccio of veal with sauce vitello and a filet of rascasse lightly seared for crispiness with a glass of costière de Nimes rouge. Afterward we shared a carafe of provençal rosé 2007 La Commanderie de Peyrassol to finish off a leisurely afternoon.

And it was light on the pocketbook-16.50 euros.

Le 122
122 rue de Grenelle
Paris 75007
Metro: Varenne
01-4556-0742

Bistro de Breteuil-A Meal You Can’t Refuse

In anticipation of April the usual Paris gloom of this final day of March was pushed aside by an explosion of sunshine. On days like these Parisians scamper towards sunny café terraces, so when my colleague Albert Nahmias invited me to lunch I was ready.

His choice was the Bistro de Breteuil facing a statue of Louis Pasteur on the Place de Breteuil near Les Invalides. It is well off the tourist track in a residential neighborhood with very little vehicular traffic to disturb your dining experience.

One of seven BISTROS QUI ONT TOUT COMPRIS (all inclusive menu–apertif, first course, main course, dessert, bottle of wine for two and coffee for only 38 euros.)

As we sipped our kirs Albert enjoyed smoked salmon with fromage blanc, spring onions and toast while I had a seafood salad of shrimp and mussels on a bed of greens with a light vinaigrette.

For a main course we both had a slab of moist roast pork with sautéed potatoes accompanied by a bottle of Bordeaux Chapelle de Tutiac 1ères Cotes de Blaye 2007.

For dessert I had a classic Baba au Rhum with a generous pouring of Rum Saint Jacques from Martinique while Albert dashed off to another meeting.

Over an expresso I chatted with my neighbors, a couple from Vancouver, BC who had first dined here twenty-five years ago and found it just as good today.

Bistro de Breteuil
3, Place de Breteuil
Paris 7507
01-4567-0727
Metro:Duroc

8th Arrondissement

OTH SOMBATH

The longer I live here the more non-French restaurants I discover. First there was Italian and now Asian.   As you enter OTH SOMBATH your first impression is sleek, clean and modern as befits a bistro designed by Patrick Jouin whose concepts range from the Vélib’ to the Campanile Hotels and the empire of Alain Ducasse, including the bar at the Plaza Athenée and the Jules Verne at the Eiffel Tower.

Fernando greeted me with a coupe de champagne and guided me through the menu created by Chef Oth Sombath who added a personal touch to Tom Yam Kuong, a classic Thai soup of shrimp and lemon grass-tart with a hint of sweetness.

Pla Yang was a whole daurade wrapped in banana leaves that gave crispness to the skin and moisture to the flesh-délicieux. A glass of Coteaux du Languedoc, La Sarabonde 2007 (Grenache, syrah, carigan) was perfect.

And for the more carnivorous, minced Argentine beef in aThai basil sauce-spicy without masking the flavor of the meat.

An assortment of desserts included shaved, caramelized coconut wrapped in a banana leaf and crunchy crepes stuffed with coconuts.

A perfect way to ease into spring that has just sprung.

Oth Sombath
184 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Tel: 01-4256-5555
Metro: Saint-Philipe-du-Roule

Maison Blanche

Situated atop the Theatre de Champs-Elysées on the chic Avenue Montaigne Maison Blanche offers one of the most spectacular dining views in Paris. On this overcast, grey Paris day the sun was barely peeking through as I gazed up and across the Seine at the spire of the American Church, the dome of Les Invalides and the ugly tower looming over Montparnasse.

The theatre was completed in 1913 in time to scandalize Paris with the world premiere production of Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring performed by Diaghalev’s BALLETS RUSSES featuring Nijinsky.

I awaited the delayed arrival of my colleague and Paris culinary “rabbi,” Albert NAHMIAS with a crisp flute of Deutz rosé accompanied by amuse-geules.

From the daily formule I started with a carpaccio of daurade marinated in tequila and Albert opted for Gambas with Paimpol white beans, chrorizo and chayote.

A 2008 Domaine Laroche Viognier (Merlot, Syrah and Granache) accompanied my pintade au vinaigre, choux rouge et pommes. I managed to poach some of Albert’s Monkfish cheeks with a delicate sauce of chestnut milk and celery.

Albert watched his waistline but I enjoyed all but a spoonful of pastillas aux marrons a la vanille de bourbon.

Where: 15 avenue Montaigne
Tel: 01-4723-5509
Metro: Alma-Marceau, Franklin Roosevelt

W Bar at the Warwick

Just off the bustling Champs Elysées, tucked into a corner of the Warwick Hotel is the W Bar. Blonde wood walls and brown leather chairs offer a soothing change from the famous boulevard. At night the lights soften and someone is likely to play the piano to add a romantic touch to a tète à tète.

A Deutz rosé champagne, olives and nuts put me at ease as I waited for a colleague.

First courses were three large ravioli of pied de cochon and Bouchée de la Reine. Bar manager Yves Le Perzon selected a 2004 Chateau Peymartin, Saint Julien from his excellent assortment of wines by glass.

Main courses were six succulent wok sautéed coquilles St Jacques with vegetables and smoky, grilled andouilette served with mashed potatoes.

Dessert was a degustation that included a mousse au chocolat and passion fruit

in fromage blanc.
A relaxing break from a hectic day.
W Bar at the Hotel Warwick
5 rue de Berri
Paris 75008
Tel: 01-4561-8208
Metro: George V

Le Bouco

Corinne of LA BELLE FRANCE and I were visiting the Musée de Nissim di Camondo for the first time as a possible element of a tour we were preparing. Named for the son of Moise, head of a great Turkish-Jewish banking family it is a repository of one of the great collections of 19th century furniture and furnishings.

We always have lunch after these excursions often in search of new bistros to review. Afterward we walked to the rue Constantinople in the heart of the area around the Metro Europe-so called because of the surrounding streets-Vienna, Edinburgh, Rome, etc. It is also well known for the luthiers, sheet music and instrument stores favored by students of the nearby Paris Conservatory.

The first thing you see when you approach Le Bouco (bouche in Basque patois) is the smiling face of the adorable owner, Céline. Speaking beautifully accented English she seated us at a terrace table for four so that we could both enjoy the passing view.

It was another hot day so we started with a chilled 2008 Fruit Rosé from Costiéres de Nimes. We then shared crostini d’aubergines, smooth and piquant with an extra dash of lemon juice and crostini de brandade de cabillaud (cod). Each plate was accompanied by a tiny salad of arugula dressed in a sweet balsamic vinaigrette.

For our main courses Corinne had a tartare of saumon and I continued with the cabiallaud, roasted and served with a garlic flan. We, of course ordered the other half-bottle of rosé to wash it down.

Desserts were refreshing and light. A tome de savoie accompanied by a confit of Gewurtztraminer and a feathery light peach poached in lemon juice, cumin, licorice and rosemary.

Caƒé was served with a tiny square bowl of chocolate ganache. We passed on more wine or we’d have fallen asleep at the table.

At a mere 22 euros for the entrée and plat I‘ll make it a point to come back. It will also be interesting to check out the music stores.

Le Bouco
10 rue de Constantinople
Metro: Europe

01-4293-7333

Laurent
Chef Alain Pégouret and a satisfied diner

Built on the site of a former hunting lodge of Louis XIV in the heart of the Champs-Elysées garden Laurent continues to be a place to see and be seen while enjoying first-class cuisine.

On a beautiful Friday afternoon I joined three fellow journalists for a sun-filled luncheon on the walled terrace that keeps peering eyes away. Seated at our left, clad in his signature powder blue suit and spectacles, was Michou, the famous transvestite performer and owner of Chez Michou and directly in a front of me against the wall was Paul Wolfowitz, one of the Neo-cons (is that conservative or convict?) responsible for the Iraq War.

A plate of ameuse-geules was immediately placed before us and a bottle of Givry 1er Cru (Pinot Noir) 2006 Domaine Jablot was opened before a truly grand three-hour meal.

To start I had Petit Pois comme un guacamole (Garden peas mounded and covered by a crispy bacon pancake upon which sat a feathery ball of pureed peas that was about as heavy as a marshmallow surrounded by a sea of olive oil and pureed pea vinaigrette-almost too beautiful to eat. Margaret had Arraigné de mer  (spider crab in it’s own jelly served in a martini glass with creamed fennel that she refused to share!

Maryse had fumé de thon et foie gras de canard mi-cuit (smoked tuna and duck liver cooked in glazed rhubarb and Alec opted for simplicity –a whole lobster salad prepared à table.

Margaret moved on to a spit-roasted pigeon accompanied by a hollow piece of corn on the cob filled with a puree of black beans and celery-this she fortunately did not Bogart and I had a delicious bite of the pigeon breast. I opted for a simple but impeccable filet Saint-Pierre.

Alec proceeded with steamed sole, rolled and seasoned with chorizo, white asparagus and capers and Maryse enjoyed the Turbot Meuniere with white beans and morilles.

The cheese tray was rolled out and we selected Tamier, Maroilles, brind’amour, Langes and spoonful of sirop de diège.

We settled on two desserts: a feathery orange blossom soufflé and a gaufrette of fraises des bois while being joined by Chef Alain Pégouret.

Born and raised in Cannes to a an architect and his real estate agent wife Alain’s culinary interest was initially aroused by his grandmother and his father who took him to meals at fine restaurants.

He started reading about food by buying cookbooks with the money he didn’t spend on cafeteria meals starting with Paul Bocuse’s legendary Cuisine de Marché.

His cooking skills were honed at Joel Robuchon’s Jamin and Christian Constant, first at the Crillon and later at Le Violin d’Ingres.

Laurent is currently rated 1-star by Michelin but if today’s meal is any indication it won’t be long before it earns a second.

Laurent
41 avenue Gabriel
Paris 75008
01-4225-0039

9th Arrondissement

La Pizzetta
In between the funiculaire de Montmartre (Metro Anvers) and Metro Pigalle I was delighted to discover a corner of Italy-La Salumeria where you can find a vast selection of Italian products for the home chef and La Pizzetta, my destination for dinner with Albert.

We hadn’t seen each other since December and had much catching up to do. Speaking “flawless” English thanks to lessons from my daughter we spoke of New York in English and Paris in French and ordered in Italian.

Olivier greeted us with a bottle of Sicilian Red and we started with a shared Pizza La Parma, wafer thin slices of Parma ham, tomatoes and apple slices that are replaced in season with figs. Crisp and tasty.

Albert continued with thin strips of tagilatelli in a light bolognese sauce and I satisfied my craving for veal with medallions sautéed in sage and accompanied by crunchy cherry tomatoes and thin spears of green asparagus.

In your service I sacrificed my brioche (a French way of saying potbelly –so much more elegant) to a feathery tiramasu.

We polished off our wine with a toast to the Sardinan chef Recardo.

La Pizzetta is fun and reasonable. Wines by the glass are 4 euros and an assortment of Italian wines are in the 20 euro range. Pizzas start at 9.5 euros and main courses and pasta are from 12-19 euros.

La Pizzetta
22 avenue de Trudaine
Paris 75009
Tel: 01-4878-1408
M: Anvers

La Salumeria
20 avenue de Trudaine
Paris 75009
Tel: 01-4282-0632
M: Anvers

11th Arrondissement

Le Passage

My daughter’s friends Elsbeth and Patrick were researching an investment property in Paris and wanted my input. My reward was dinner at a charming Italian bistro, LE PASSAGE, in their neighborhood at the end of le Passage de la Bonne Graine. The building dates to the beginning of the 18th century and the exposed beams (poutres) are remnants of ship that had been dismantled.

They are regulars and we received an effusive welcome. Patrick knows the wine list well and selected a 2006 Valpolicella from Saint Urbain at 36 euro. Chef Giacamo is an Economics graduate from the Sorbonne who has found his calling behind the stove.
For starters Patricia and Elsbeth had the salmon tartare and were generous enough to share! Patrick and I enjoyed a sweet potato gnocchi finished in veal stock.

They couldn’t resist the monkfish delicately flavored with lemon but I could and not having filled my wild game quota for the season opted for the rabbit risotto with pumpkin. Dessert was easy. The lighter than air zabione of fresh pears with tiny chunks for crunch was simply yummy.
Lots of wines under 25 euro.

And lunch is a steal at 15 euro: entrée, plat & dessert.

18 passage de la Bonne Graine
Tel: 01-4700-7330
Metro: Ledru-Rollin

Chez Paul

A fixture since the 20s most of the classic seasonal bistro dishes are available including pot au feu, tete de veau, rognons, civet de sanglier, lapin and boeuf bourgignon.

You can start with a sharable order of the house paté or rillette de lapin and if you want to save a few euros for a calvados the pichets of house wines are eminently drinkable. I enjoy the Cotes du Rhone.

Steve and Joan were in town from San Francisco and we took the chill off a particularly ugly day with a generous steak au poivre and pommes de terres dauphinois. We skipped the cheese course but relished 3 beautiful profiteroles bathed in chocolate sauce.

A lively place especially for a weekend lunch on a rainy day like today when regulars and families abound.

13 rue de Charonne (at rue de Lappe)
01-4806–7910
Metro: Bastille

Astier

Just a few blocks from the République metro station at the junction of the northern end of the Marais and the 11th arrondissement Frederic Hubig of Café Moderne has applied his talents into turning this classic old Paris bistro into a vibrant bistro du coin that attracts diners from all over Paris or like the couple seated to my left from Mexico City.

I arrived at 1pm after having escorted a few San Franciscans on an edited version (time constraints) of PTEE’s PARIS AU FLANEUR
cultural walk and was famished.

Frederic greeted me with a glass of a 2002 Santenay from Bourgogne (100% chardonnay) to accompany a slab of exquisite fois gras.

A pintade fermière, guaranteed free-range (guinea hens can’t survive under artificial light) and a fluffy bowl of pommes de terres purée savored with a Grand Cru 2002 St.Emillion selected from the extraordinary cave that was included in the purchase of the restaurant. Since Frederic prices his wines based on his original cost and not what the market will bear you can expect some exceptional values.

All of this was merely a prelude to the plateau de fromages Astier. David, my sommelier de fromage selected seven for me (my limit not his) including camembert au calvados, St. Marcellin, Epoisse and a regale de Bourgogne aux raisins. The St. Emillion worked perfectly.

Dessert was a tall, feathery baba au rhum with chantilly on the side and a bath of dark Cuban rum.

Since the meal and company were both wonderful, three hours later I didn’t feel as if I’d gained an ounce. The price for the meal, not including wine was a mere 29.50 euros plus a small supplement for the foie gras and baba au rhum!

Complimentary beverage for PTEE Prestige Members.

44 rue de J-P Timbaud 75011
01-4357-1635 restaurant.astier@wanadoo.fr
Metro: République


Dinner with Terrance & Alec in the Sahara

Alec Lobrano and I were delighted to host seven readers for an insider dinner at one of our favorite bistros, ASTIER.

It was nearly too hot to breathe at 5PM when the temperature approached 100 degrees farenheit but by 7:30PM when our guess arrived it had cooled off just enough to make the evening bearable.

As is my custom I had arrived at 7PM to make sure that everything was in order and Boris, the sommelier served me a lovely Jurançon with the unlikely name of Happy Hours, a ply on the last name of the winemaker, Marie Hours (pronounced orse as in horse without the h.)

Our arriving guests were greeted with a flute of champagne and all 9 of us milled about and got acquainted.

Once seated a glass of Juranccon from the maison of Marie’s father was served and between us we sampled most of the entrées: foie gras, smoked herring, confit de tomates avec crevettes and grilled vegetables.

The main courses: ris de veau poelé, julienne (a white fish), veal were savored with a luscious red.

The notorious cheese plate, a selection of 15 including the tables’ favorite a camembert soaked in calvados was accompanied by a cotes du rhone.

Desserts were a nage au nectarine with ice cream and my favorite the baba au rhum soaked in dark rum from Martinique. Boris generously offered us a red dessert wine.
Bernard Boisson’s incomparable blend of 30 and 40 year old stock cognac from maison Audry capped off an extraordinarily satisfying evening.

We invite you to join us for our next party-watch the newsletter for details.

Photo Credit
Michel Cloes, www.gastronomyfestivals.com



12th Arrondissement

La Gazzetta

Start with an Italian name, add a French menu, stir in a Swedish chef and decorate with sun-bleached mint-colored walls, ceiling fans, palm trees recalling Havana when Meyer Lansky ran the town and you have one of the most satisfying and reasonably priced bistros in town.

My pal and videographer Dr. PP took a few hours off from his search for a cure for Parkinson’s disease to join me for lunch. Produce comes from the Marché d’ Aligre just a block away and one of Paris’ least expensive markets that no doubt contributes to the phenomenal prices.

This was a bad day to be a fish-I lost count of the number of grilled bonita that went by as the poisson du jour. The meal started with an assortment of starters presented as in a starred restaurant: a soup of sweet cévennes onions with goat’s milk served in a small earless cup, a mini-wedge of pizza topped with chicken liver paté, walnuts and pureed fennel and mackerel marinated in malt vinegar, sugar and vanilla with a tri color of marinated sweet peppers.

The main course was a generous piece of grilled (rare) Bonita tuna accompanied by smashed red potatoes, red onions, bits of sweet apricot and mint leaves-light and refreshing. This formule was 16 euros + a 2 euro supplement for the fish. The quaff of the day was the red wine of the month a merlot from the Languedoc at 3.80/glass.

My next visit will be the acclaimed dinner menu that showcases Chef Peter Nilsson’s inventive talent.

La Gazetta
29 rue de Cotte
01-4347-4705
Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner

Metro: Ledru-Rollin

Le Baron Rouge

At the end of a morning of shopping for Sunday dinner at the Marché d’Aligre I can often be found sipping a glass of red from the extensive list of wines, some for as little as 2.5 euros a glass, accompanied by a plate of rillettes de porc with a bowl of cornichons that could easily satisfy two persons at this local institution.

Empty wine barrels serve as tables and the Baron is always alive with shoppers like myself whose palates have been tempted by the abundance of colorful and mouth-watering pleasures that fill the groaning stands of the market.

If you have a bigger appetite opt for the combination charcuterie/cheese plates at 8 euros and fill an empty bottle (provided for 50 centimes) from one of the Baron’s barrels of wine for your Sunday dinner.

1 rue Théophile Roussel
Paris, 75012 01 43 43 14 32
Metro:Ledru-Rollin

13th Arrondissement

L’ourcine

I first heard about this quaint bistro nestled off the beaten track in the 13th from my pal Alec Lobrano, author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS but my introduction was from Barbara Wild of Frenchgardening.

In the pinball, networking world of Paris Through Expatriate Eyes I found Barbara through cookbook author Paula Wolfert who found me on Facebook and booked my Paris au Flaneur tour for her daughter who was staying with Barbara from whom Paula had purchased cookware.

A further irony was that I had met Paula at a cooking demonstration at the Emporium in San Rafael, CA in 1980 where I purchased COUSCOUS and OTHER GOOD FOOD FROM MOROCCO.

As is my habit I arrived a few minutes early and immediately began to take some fotos for the site when the beautiful French-Chinese Marie –France and her Icelandic husband, authors of THE ODD GUIDE engaged me in conversation and asked if hey might take photos of me and my guest who had just arrived.

BW was well known here and two glasses of Txapa, a Pays-Basques rosé with a hint of cherry to the finish was placed on our table accompanied by a shot glass of scallop mouse with tiny crunchy croutons.

We ordered from the formule–a paté for BW and braised beef tongue for me.  Barbara had the pan-roasted St.Pierre and I lusted for the house variation on brandue de morue made with cabillaud–garlicky, creamy and finished off in the oven for texture. We washed it down with a light, fruity Morgon from LaPierre.

For desert BW chose a simple cheese course while I experimented with an elegant croustillant de fenouil served with a timbale of fromage blanc sorbet.

At 32 euros + wine I’ll be back often.

L’Ourcine: 92 rue Broca, 75013 Paris. Tel: 01 47 07 13 65.
Métro: Gobelins.

14th Arrondissement

Le Zeyer

One of Henry Miller’s favorite spots to shnorr a free meal from one of his pals, Le Zeyer. with its burnished brass fittings and railings, mirrors and spotless glassware is an example of the elegance one expects in a Parisian brasserie.

A tuxedo clad maitre d’ passed my luncheon companion and me off to a similarly attired waiter and we were directed up the staircase to a table rond in a charming dining room- a perfect spot for tète-a tète.

The formule of entrée, plat, café at 21 euros was a no-brainer. She had the tomato and mozzarella tarte and for me my first oysters of the season-6 Quiberon with the salty taste of the Atlantic that blended perfectly with a sauvignon Blanc from the Touraine.

Two salmon gave up their lives that we might savor them in a sauce of dill and butter that was absorbed by the splendid boiled potatoes–doesn’t pommes vapeur sound more appetizing?

The traditional Alsatien specialty, choucroute garnie, the complete roster of grilled meats and in season, the raw oysters being shucked at the sidewalk give a comfy air to this local destination since 1913.

Le Zeyer
62, rue d'Alesia
75014 Paris
Tel : 01 45 40 43 88
Open daily
M: Alésia (exit #1)

Chez Karole


Or as we call it Karole’s Afghan Café-think of Karen Allen’s Himalayan bar in Raiders of the Lost Ark.

Karole’s is not a tourist destination, you won’t find it in guidebooks and my friends may pillory me for revealing our secret.

Just a block off Agnes Varda’s immortalized Rue Daguerre it draws colourful neighbourhood characters like the author Jerome Charyn, Uncle Den-Den, a retired computer guy from the Southern Pacific railroad who in his spare time produced and directed several successful runs of Waiting for Godot and Dimitri a Buffalo Bill look-alike with appropriately golden hair and beard as he is a Gulider who traipses across France restoring medieval churches.

On a recent visit the four bar stools at the entrance were occupied and a few of the eighteen seats were available. Uncle Den-Den and I were joined by Alvin Stillman, a bar and jazz club operator from San Francisco who had stopped in Paris en route to his country house.

An 80-year old guy with a bald top, long hair dangling over his ears and neck and sporting a walrus moustache, he fit in perfectly.

WARNING: Be prepared to patiently drink wine (it’s unbelievably reasonable) while waiting for your meal. Karole’s is a one-woman show- she hosts, cooks to order and serves.

Den-Den chose two appetizers-grilled caille and grilled aubergines. Alvin and I shared the garlicky aubergines and had a brochette d’agneau served over the lightest perfumed rice. Two bottles of Cotes du Rhone to wash it down and we were out the door for 45 euros.

PS Don’t spread the word too vigorously-we don’t want to overwhelm Karole. I enjoy this neighborhood very much and will be drawing on it for future reports.

CHEZ KAROLE
34 rue Boulard
Metro: Denfert-Rochereau
Tel: 01-4322-5750

15th Arondissement
Jadis

Off the beaten tourist path in the 15th arrondissement discerning diners are discovering pleasures worth the trip. Young chef Guillaume Delage brings an innovative approach to classic seasonal dishes and his wife charms the front of the house.

As the site of the next meeting of ALEC (Lobrano) and TERRANCE’S DINNER CLUB I wanted to see what Alec was so excited about. We were joined by the wine importers Cynthia and Robert Hurley of Boston who selected a white Graves from Pessac Léognan La Croix de Carbonnieux 2007 to get us started.

Cynthia had a velvety velouté of pumpkin with garlic croutons and fresh herbs while Robert enjoyed Oeufs cocotte florentine, poutargue de bar maison.

Alec went for the Foie gras poêlé, confit de tomates and since the game season was just opening I couldn’t resist Râble de lapin de garenne rôtis physalis et trompettes de la mort (saddle of hare on a bed of physalis with wild mushrooms.) We ate slowly in anticipation of our next wine, a red from the Languedoc, Faugères Domaine de l’ancienne mercerie  2008.
 
Cynthia picked up my game cue and had roasted mallard Filet de colvert rôti, spätzeles la cuisse en caillette et choux rouge confit and I chose a pan-fried onglet de veau with cream corn and Swiss chard.

Robert ordered Pavé de cabillaud (cod) vapeur, choucroute et beurre blanc. Alec countered with Crevettes David Hervé, poêlées au Saté, crème de riz noir et épinards.
We skipped dessert and ordered the cheese assortment washed down by a Vacqueyras Arabesque Montvac 2006.

We wandered back and forth from the formule to à la carte to experience the widest variety of Chef Delage’s talent. And befitting a hard working, young chef running his own shop the wine list sparkles with excellent wines at reasonable prices.

208, rue de la Croix-Nivert
Tel:01-45-57-73-20
Metro: Convention, Porte de Versailles
Mon-Fri: 12pm-11pm
Sat: 7pm-11pm

17th Arrondissement

LE RIPAILLE
Foto credit Corrine LaBalme
It was a quiet Monday and my colleague Corrine LaBalme of LA BELLE FRANCE was writing a feature about the Batignolles area of the 17th and wanted company. She had heard good things about RIPAILLE but this was her first visit to this quaint neighborhood bistro.

We were warmly greeted by Philippe who once were seated suggested a Domaine de L’Aigle 2002 Chardonnay form Limoux. It was yellow like a Sauterne with just a hint of fruit.

If you are on a budget 11 euros buys a main course with salad and a glass of wine and for 15 euros you can have an appetizer and main course or a main course and dessert.

We splurged: a refreshing gaspacho of tomatoes and red peppers with fresh mint for Corrine and for me grilled zucchini rounds and girolles redolent of the forest. As a main course Corrine had a crusty, grilled cabillaud and I roast pigeon on a bed of chopped Brussels sprouts and bacon.

We had just enough of Jean Foillard’s wonderful 2006 Morgon left to accompany our cheese assortment that included a Livarot and Pont L’eveque from Philippe’s native Normandy. Coffee and a shared moelleux de chocolat concluded a perfectly pleasant and relaxing meal.

Ripaille is the kind of bistro du coin that is filled nightly with neighbors seeking good value, amiable ambiance and pleasant service. And if you want to look across a table and gaze into your lover’s eyes go for lunch when you’ll have lots of privacy.

Ripaille
69, rue des Dames
Metro: Rome

18th Arrondissement

BISTRO POULPOT

There is the Montmartre overrun by tourists: Sacre Coeur, and la Place des Tertres; and the village on a hill of les Montmartrois.

I was meeting Chris, my Australian mate from Sydney for lunch to discuss the rental of his 2 BR flat just off the Rue Lamarck, high up in that Montmartre. (Terrance@paris-expat.com for details)

His choice, Bistro Poulpot, was a fixture for years that had recently been updated by Veronique MELLOUL and is now a luncheon canteen for locals.

The menu is drawn from her Mamie Louise’s family recipes and her years of haute cuisine cookery in French Polynesia.

Moments after being seated a complimentary cocktail of rum, orange juice and grenadine with an orange slice floating on top was placed before us-no umbrella.

At 13.50 it was impossible to resist the formule. A gazpacho, followed by a blanquette de poulet, a tasty riff on the classic blanquette de veau. A red from the Languedoc worked and we saved enough to enjoy with a comté and runny camembert.A delightful afternoon.

In the evening when the crowd swells with travelers who have heard good things she expands her selections dramatically and often organizes vegetarian gastronomique dinners.

39, rue Lamarck
Tel: 01-4606-8600
M: Lamarck